Galwey, Mount


Trip Details
Mountain Range: 
Mountain Subrange: 
Attained Summit?: 
Trip Date: 
Monday, September 6, 2004
Summit Elevation (m): 
Summit Elevation (ft): 
Elevation Gain (m): 
Total Distance (km): 
Difficulty Notes: 

A fall on the crux would severely injure or kill so take necessary precautions.

Trip Report

Mount Galwey is an excellent scramble in Waterton Lakes National Park in southern Alberta. I thought it deserved its difficult rating simply because a slip on the crux would have been very painful. We actually got fairly lost on the mountain (that's what I get for not bringing the guide out on time!) and ended up doing some seriously exposed scrambling before realizing we were way out and once we found the correct route it seemed pretty darn tame.


Basically we went all the way up to the ridge just north of the summit block and then tried going around the east side on very steep shelves and slabs. Once we realized our mistake we went back around the summit block on the west side and summitted via the proper route. I thought that down climbing back from the summit to the point just before the crux was rather tricky but I think I took a harder line then necessary.


I had to stretch out really far to get my left foot on a 2 inch ledge and then shuffle my way over onto the crux. Apparently others go up and down from the window and that sounds a bit less exposed. After all the exposure on the wrong route Jon decided to call it quits at the window and my brother waited a bit below the crux - this was his first scramble and he found the exposure a bit unnerving. I'm glad he didn't join us on our off-route gallivant because I think he would've killed me for sure!! ;-)


A bit more scree than I was expecting but still a recommended outing.


[Galwey from Coppermine Creek parking lot and starting point for the scramble.]

[Summit from the ridge.]

[Route up the summit block.]

[This is not the right way. Most exposed 'scrambling' I'd ever done.]

[The normal, Kane crux (assuming you don't get lost first).]

[Vern summiting.]

[On the summit with the register.]

[A summit panorama including a lot of clouds! ;) Looking towards Crandell, Ruby Ridge and Lineham. ++]

[My brother Dale just below the crux - pretty good for a first scramble and a flat-lander to boot!]

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