Edith South, Mount


Trip Details
Mountain Range: 
Mountain Subrange: 
Attained Summit?: 
Trip Date: 
Friday, June 30, 2006
Summit Elevation (m): 
Summit Elevation (ft): 
Elevation Gain (m): 
Round Trip Time: 
Total Distance (km): 
Difficulty Notes: 

This is a traverse of the mountain from the north to south peaks. There is some moderate to difficult scrambling when descending the south peak to the trail.

Trip Report

After signing the real register on the center peak of Mount Edith, I looked for a way down to the third (South) Peak. Soon I found a trail and after detouring slightly around to a brief scree run I was staring up another pile of scree towards the infamous tunnel. I remembered my bad experience from the North Peak and proceeded up the mountain with only a water bottle and camera - choosing to leave my backpack behind because I knew I had to come back that way anyway. My idea proved to be a good one. I made it no problem through the tunnel am a bit incredulous that some people feel the need for a belay here! I guess if you haven't scrambled the "Chossy Rockies" before you may find the loose stuff a bit unnerving! ;-) I was very surprised at the looseness of the rock, even in the tunnel where I figured traffic would've solidified things a long time ago already. Maybe Edith isn't the popular gal I thought she was!


I was a bit nervous for the section after the tunnel because I've read that it's loose rock on down-slopping ledges, my version of the perfect nightmare! Actually I found it a lot more solid than the previous two peaks and the cairns are expertly placed. The key here is to follow Kane's description and don't gain height right away. Scrambling down another fissure and over the flake was fun, but I really didn't want that sucker to come down! In my humble opinion I think that the two wedges you have to scramble over (one by the flake and one in the tunnel) are the most dangerous parts of the route! The one in the tunnel actually moved on me on the way back down it - and you would be dead if that monster came down the tunnel after you.


Following the cairns, I came to the summit ridge and after a very refreshing walk on solid rock I was standing on the last summit. I took some pictures, glanced at the approaching clouds and walked back down the ridge.


[Vern on the South Summit of Mount Edith.]

[Mount Rundle is brooding under an increasingly cloudy sky.]

[Mount Louis sneaks in behind the cairn on the South Peak.]

[The exposed South ridge as seen on descent.]

[The trail snakes up along some exposed ledges and is a lot easier than I expected. Very well cairned.]

[See the next photo for a view down the tunnel. This is as seen from above.]

[This is looking down the tunnel as seen from above.]

[You want to clear out of here pretty fast. This is the view looking up at the tunnel from the South / Center col.]



Once down at the South / Center col again I started down the alternate descent. I knew I had to stick right but I may have gone too far to the right! I headed for a distinct (see picture) promontory and headed over it to skier's right down a narrow gully. The good part about that route is that it's relatively solid (compared with the rest of that rotten hill). The bad part is that it's solid. Solid on this mountain means only one thing - it's so steep nothing can stick to it, and that probably includes scramblers! There were two difficult down climbs that I'm not sure I could've done if I was any shorter. I also didn't know if I'd cliff out, so I was nervous until finally I a spotted a clear route down to the Cory Pass hiking trail.


[This is the view from the col. I aimed for the promontory in the picture as marked and went to the right of it. This was mercifully solid but some serious down climbs followed.]


[The down climb. Doesn't look as bad from this angle.]


I made it back to the car no problem. The hiking trail down is steep and I didn't enjoy it nearly as much on the way down as on the way up. My round trip time was just under 6 hours. Highly recommended scramble but you should do Mount Cory, it's neighbor, first so that you know what you're getting into.


[To the left is the pass and in the top right is where I came down.]

[I'm not the only one who enjoys flowers apparently!]

[These flowers really lit up the slopes on the way to the pass.]

[One last flower pic!]

Add new comment

Plain text

  • No HTML tags allowed.
  • Web page addresses and e-mail addresses turn into links automatically.
  • Lines and paragraphs break automatically.
Enter the characters shown in the image.