Buller Mountain


Trip Details
Mountain Range: 
Mountain Subrange: 
Attained Summit?: 
Trip Date: 
Monday, July 15, 2002
Summit Elevation (m): 
Summit Elevation (ft): 
Elevation Gain (m): 
Total Distance (km): 
Difficulty Notes: 

Easy to moderate scrambling with some route finding in the approach gully and some slabs with scree to the summit.

Trip Report

Buller was a very fun mountain. It isn't scrambled that often and there is no clear trail to the summit. Part of the scramble was bushwhacking and part of it was clear climbing on shitty scree and slab slopes. I'm really selling it eh?! :)


The trickiest part of Buller was on the final summit slopes where little rocks on bigger slabs threatened to send you tumbling off the mountain.


[Shawn down climbs the bump on the west side of the col. The summit is directly opposite the bump on the east side.] 
A long ways to go from here, still 300 vertical meters.] 
Mount Nestor is across the Spray Lakes reservoir as seen from the col on Buller.] 
The group at the top of Mount Buller.]

[Mount Bogart is prominent, rising over Red Peak in this view from the summit.]

[Mounts Eon and Aye stand out from the summit.]

[Jeff brought out the rope to help some people over the slabs strewn with pebbles.] 
[The group poses at the col on the way down. As you can tell, it was a hot day! :)]


Hi Vern,
my buddy Tom suggested we climb this mountain using rope, ice tools, crampons.
I've been on the col before, and the 300 meters from there to the summit
looks quite eerie, exposed on a narrow ridge with slab and lose rocks acting lie ball bearings. Would you say this can be done safely in such conditions?


Hi Adrian, If you treat this as an alpine climb it might be possible but I would guess that the terrain to the col might be the crux. Based on my (poor!) memory, this is quite the avalanche terrain so please take all necessary precautions there. Have fun!

Thanks for your advice, Vern, yeah, I told my buddy Tom we should forget about this winter ascent of Buller, too risky; I want to explore Mt Nomad near Indefatigable, he'd climbed it already, I want to see if there is a way to get to Warspite via Nomad route for a summer trip, or it is way too long. Based on maps and google earth, it seems to be accessible via some valleys.

Good call.

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