Titkana Peak / Tatei Ridge


Trip Details
Mountain Range: 
Mountain Subrange: 
Attained Summit?: 
Trip Date: 
Wednesday, September 25, 2013
Summit Elevation (m): 
Summit Elevation (ft): 
Elevation Gain (m): 
Total Distance (km): 
Difficulty Notes: 

Pretty easy scrambling from Snowbird Pass, easy off trail hiking from Snowbird Meadows.

Trip Report

After doing the Berg Lake approach the day before and hiking the 11km and 800 meters of elevation gain to Snowbird Pass, I now had to find the energy and will power to continue up Titkana Peak via Tatei Ridge! There is surprisingly little information on the web about Titkana but the route is very straightforward. Actually there are a few different routes. The easiest route is to by pass the false summit and ascent loose scree slopes right to the main summit directly from Snowbird Meadows before getting to the pass. The advantage with this route is less distance and easier scrambling (pretty much just a hike). The big disadvantage though, is the loose scree ascent and no good views of the Reef Icefield on the east side of the pass.


I chose to ascend from Snowbird Pass and experienced amazing views in every direction and even some hands-on moderate scrambling with brief exposure. It was a bit depressing to lose height from the false summit but it wasn't much. Views from the top of Titkana are worth the work - big time! Descending scree slopes to Snowbird Meadows is a no-brainer and was fast and fun on loose, small scree. With good weather and clear views this is a top "bang for your buck" peak.


[The Reef Icefield to the east of Snowbird Pass with Lynx Mountain rising on the right. ++]

[Looking up the south ridge of Titkana from just above Snowbird Pass]

[The views towards Robson are incredible as you get higher on the ridge to the summit. Resplendent is hidden in clouds to the left, Extinguisher Tower is much lower than Titkana just left of center at bottom. ++]

[Lynx Mountain from near the false summit. This is NOT a scramble due to steep snow / ice slopes near the summit.]

[More views over the Reef Icefield with Lynx on the far right. ++]

[View ahead to the true summit from the false one - note the elevation loss. You can bypass this false summit and go directly up Titkana main peak from the meadow below.]

[More great Robson scenery. ++]

[Looking back over the false summit at Lynx Mountain. ++]

[Note the lake below? The Reef Icefield is pretty large and prevents an easy traverse to Chetang Ridge across from Tatei Ridge (Snowbird Peak). ++]

[Summit pano showing Lynx on the left with Resplendent, Extinguisher Tower, Robson, Helmet, Waffl, Rearguard, Whitehorn, Anne-Alice, Mumm and Chetang Ridge from L to R. ++]

[Looking over the Reef Icefield to Mount Fitzwilliam in the distance.]

[An unnamed summit directly across from Titkana Peak to the east]

[Looking northeast off the summit towards Calumet Peak on the right.]

[I love the colors in this landscape, looking north off Titkana.]

[Swoda Mountain]

[The large mountain in cloud is Mount Chown with Mount Bess to the left.]

[I climbed Mumm Peak the following day. Gendarme Mountain just 'peaking' over it's summit shoulder.]

[Mount Anne-Alice isn't particularly difficult but does look to have a summit ice field which should probably mean roping up with more than one person. Mount Phillips to the left of it, named after Donald "Curly" Phillips, the young methodist pastor who joined George Kinney in his obsessive attempts at being the first to climb Mount Robson.]

[Whitehorn Mountain is an impressive 11,000er in the Robson area.]

[I can't get enough of this impressive landscape! Resplendent is almost cloud free finally. ++]

[Vern on the summit of Titkana Peak]

[Looking over the false summit to the impressive Lynx Mountain towering over Snowbird Pass. I think in good conditions only an ax / crampons would be required to ascend Lynx.]

[Looking up the great scree run leading to the summit of Titkana. Going up this would suck, but coming down it is great fun!]

[Mount Robson gets a cloud cap later in the afternoon.]

[Linking back up with the Snowbird Pass route.]

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