Warre, Mount


Trip Details
Mountain Range: 
Mountain Subrange: 
Attained Summit?: 
Trip Date: 
Saturday, September 20, 2014
Summit Elevation (m): 
Summit Elevation (ft): 
Elevation Gain (m): 
Total Distance (km): 
Difficulty Notes: 

No major difficulties - the hardest part is getting to the mountain via steep bushwhacking from any direction.

Trip Report

After a hard, but lovely approach the day before, Kaycie and I were delighted to wake up to a clear sky and calm breezes early on Saturday morning. After taking some morning photos of our gorgeous bivy area, including the lake that I'm calling Warre Pond, we set about getting ready for some scrambling adventures. The goal for the day was to scramble the two rarely ascended peaks directly behind our camp - Mount Warre and Vavasour. I wasn't expecting to tack on Leval, but it was an option if we had time. The day before had taken it's toll on Kaycie's feet and she was sporting some quarter sized blisters on each foot. We bandaged them up good, but we also had a long trek back out on Sunday so I didn't want to push her too hard. (I shouldn't under estimate her though - she's very determined to keep up to her dad!!)


[Detail map of the Warre / Vavasour / Leval traverse from our tarn. ++]

[A gorgeous morning. ++]

[This photo, from the evening before, shows the access point to the upper bowl before the Vavasour / Warre col. For extra points, spot the mountain goat...]


From camp, we angled up to an obvious gully through the scree. Normally there's a stream running down here, but this late in the summer there was hardly a trickle making it through. Once through the narrows the terrain opened into a nice alpine bowl from which many ascent lines to the col or south ridge of Warre became obvious. We choose to grovel up grassy slopes and then scree (quite firm) to intersect the south ridge of Warre, well north of the col. This worked out very well and within 1.5 hours of leaving camp we were approaching our first summit of the day. The scree and south ridge provided very nice scrambling with supportive scree and just enough hands-on to entertain without being tough. Kaycie really enjoyed it - especially once we were on the ridge proper.


The views in every direction were stunning! White Man Mountain and Mount Assiniboine stole the show but many other summits managed to impress too. I was especially fond of the view to Mount King George - it brought back good memories from earlier this year.


[The alpine bowl to the col]

[Rather than grind up loose scree to the col we chose to shortcut the ascent to Warre by going up steep grass and slabs to the south ridge instead.]

[Looking back over Warre Pond to Smuts, Birdwood and Snow Peak.]

[There was still some groveling, but we've done much worse!]

[These rock fins provided a nice hand rail.]

[Great views from the south ridge of Warre. Vavasour and Royal Group on far left, White Man, Aye, Eon, Lunette and Assiniboine to the right. ++]

[The route to the summit. From this vantage point the summit on the right looks higher, but it's not.]

[The mighty Mount Assiniboine looms over Mount Gloria.]

[Kaycie comes up the south ridge of Warre with White Man Mountain in the background. Rick Collier and Harry Speir put a new alpine route up the NE face of White Man in 1985 that has likely never been repeated.Two other routes are the long North Ridge or the long South Ridge - both of which are reputed to be somewhat difficult and likely never repeated either... Calvin Damen and Andrew Nugara did an ascent of the East Summit in 2008. This summit has a massive rock cairn on it and was my second choice for a third peak after Leval. I probably should have done it but ran out of time and energy. I'll be back because the views are stunning from it's summit...]

[Summit views looking south, west and north. ++]

[Looking over another unnamed tarn to the north at our approach route through the valley. The route to White Man Pass lies just on the other side of the unnamed summit to the north. Peak include (L to R), Aye, Assiniboine, Currie, Morrison, Turner, Cone. Old Goat, Nestor, Shark, Smuts... ++]

[Kaycie enjoys her first summit of the day]

[Mount Assiniboine]

[Aye Mountain]

[Looking towards the White Man Pass area with the colorful and obviously named, "Red Man Mountain" ;) Alcantara is the large peak looming behind.]

[The views go off towards Farnham and the obvious Farnham Tower near Inveremere.]

[One of my favorite views from our trip - the Royal Group including from L to R, Prince Albert, King George, Prince Edward, Prince Henry and the two on the right are Prince John and Queen Mary.]

[Sir Douglas - another 11,000er]

[Mount Smuts is one of the toughest scrambles in the Kane guide. Engadine is also a difficult scramble to it's left and The Tower is a fun scramble to it's right.]

[Mount Nestor is moderate Kane scramble and Old Goat rises to it's left, the most difficult scramble in Nugara's scramble guide. The rumor is that it has been removed from the new edition as it's too difficult to be a 'scramble'... The tiny peak in front of them is Mount Fortune.]

[Fall color on a buttress to the northeast.]

[Looking north to Mount Currie, Morrison, Byng, Cone, Mercer, Turbulent and others.]

[Another 11,000er 'peaks' over the clouds and over Mount Leman - Mount Joffre.]

[Looking up the Allenby Pass and valley with Allenby in the foreground right and Beersheba behind.]

[Vern on the summit of Mount Warre]

[Yet another spectucular view of White Man Mountain and it's gorgeous tarn nestled among the larches. The tarn is even more spectacular with it's 'disappearing waterfall'. The outlet stream goes underground from the lake before bursting out of the rock and plunging down a steep face. Too cool. I have to bivy there some day. ;)]


After enjoying the summit views in a stiff, cool morning breeze we headed down the south ridge towards Mount Vavasour - our second peak for the day.

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