Smith Peak


 

Trip Details
Mountain Range: 
Mountain Subrange: 
Attained Summit?: 
Yes
Trip Date: 
Monday, September 1, 2014
Summit Elevation (m): 
3,097
Summit Elevation (ft): 
10,161
Elevation Gain (m): 
1535
Total Distance (km): 
14.00
Difficulty Notes: 

Another pretty easy summit in the vicinity of Harrison. Some route finding required to keep it 3rd class.

Map
Trip Report

Because we're suckers for punishment, we decided it would be a good idea to attempt a third peak in the Harrison area after coming down from Folk on Sunday and after approaching and climbing Harrison on SaturdayThe only beta we had on the peak was from Rick Collier. Rick mentions an elk trail that they discovered on their descent and recommends using it and the easternmost ridge "curving to the south" to ascend the peak, rather than scrambling and bushwhacking up any of the other ridges.

 

The parking spot for the ascent is not easy to spot while driving down the spur road because it is over grown and disappears into the bush behind you as you drive past it. Steven noticed it or we may not have found it so easily! It was approximately at the 5km mark (from either direction). I had plugged in some GPS points so we knew approximately where it was which helped immensely in finding it. It's also possible that new logging spur roads can be driven up the other side of Harrison Creek so that you could in theory drive almost right to the bottom of the ascent ridge! But good luck figuring out how to do that... ;)

 

We crossed Harrison Creek on a well-placed fallen log which was not intentional - this peak doesn't see THAT many ascents. We continued up an overgrown road on the opposite side, heading east. Without my GPS way points, which I plotted at home ahead of time, we would have been tempted to head up an earlier ridge on Smith, which would have been pretty bad bushwhacking. Instead, we managed to follow first a very new logging road (with recent vehicle tracks) for about 2km and then a switch backing older one (still obvious) until we found ourselves in a hanging valley between the easternmost ridge of Smith and the penultimate easternmost ridge (say that 5 times fast).

 


[Ben on the not-so-clear logging road after we crossed Harrison Creek]


[The new logging road that had been driven on recently. We followed this east for a few kilometers.]


[Now we can finally see the burn areas that produced the notices we'd seen on the drive in effectively closing the Harrison area in early August]


[Now we've headed onto a much older road that switchbacks up towards the easternmost ridge of Smith]


[Now we're on an even older road which was part of the strange strips of old cut blocks in the hanging valley NE of the first false summit.]


[There was evidence of very old logging activity in the bare areas of this valley. This is looking at the south ridge of Smith, we'd bail to climber's left here to access the easternmost ridge before curving around to the south ridge on the spine.]

 

This hanging valley was logged many, many years ago in an interesting pattern. Instead of clear cutting the whole valley like they do nowadays, the loggers took strips out, leaving strips of mature forest in between. This was interesting to walk through - we followed bits of trail (elk) through these strips until we realized it was time to get up on that easternmost ridge. We knew it would take a miracle to find the same elk trail that Rick had used and his ribbons were long gone, so we just started bushwhacking straight up the west side of the ridge. To our great astonishment we did come on a great trail! Steven and Ben decided not to trust it as it was trending in a northerly direction and continued to bushwhack. Eric and I followed the trail up. The trail was extremely steep and went right up onto the ridge where it merged with another trail running the spine of the ridge! It was very good fortune to find this trail - remember we're lugging full bivy packs up and have already ascended a mountain and descended to camp earlier in the day.

 

Once on the spine of the ridge it was simply a matter of putting one foot in front of the other until we found a reasonable bivy spot. We had a great trail to follow, so we did just that. One surprise was the first false summit. We had to lose at least 125 vertical meters after climbing almost to the top of it so that sucked. We'd hoped to bivy at the col between the two false summits, but there was no obvious place to bivy there so we started up the second false summit on steep, forested slopes - still on an animal trail. About 50 vertical meters higher than the col we found our home for the night. It wasn't perfect but it would do. The weather was starting to deteriorate and we were tired so we made it work. After setting up camp in light rain, we ate supper and settled in for the night. I had an annoying sleep thanks to the angle of my tent. I kept sliding off the back of my sleeping pad.

 


[On the spine of the ridge, looking back at our ascent route. Note the swaths of old clear cut in the valley below and the easternmost ridge on the right hand side of the photo. Mount Splendid rises on the left.]


[Looking west up the ridge at the two false summits and true summit of smith. Splendid on the right.]


[Heading down between the two false summits. The high summit on the far left is an outlier of Harrison and is higher than Smith but unnamed.]


[Looking out over our exit valley - one valley to the west of our ascent valley.]


[View from my tent.]


[Eating supper in light rain / sleet.]


[There was a very cool rock outcrop near camp - this is looking back at camp from it. Our descent gully is the brown patch of dirt just off the gray rock moving down to the left.]


[Home sweet home]

 
[Looking east at sunset over a long, unnamed ridge. ++]

 

We awoke to a pretty gray morning - even some rain drops but decided that we'd been lucky the previous two days so why not this one? We readied our packs and started up the mountain to the false summit with some nice sunrise colors lighting up the sky behind us. As we got closer we started traversing scree slopes on the south side of the false summit and eventually worked our way around it on intermittent goat trails to the col between it and the true summit. Thick clouds started rolling in as we climbed higher up the summit block. Any difficulties on the final ridge were circumvented to the south and eventually we were on the summit with clouds swirling around us obscuring our views and making things very cold. We didn't linger long, after signing a pretty empty summit register which included the apparent first ascent entry in 1966, we headed back down to our bivy.

 

 
[Sunrise behind us as we start climbing. ++]


[The clouds added to the dramatic landscape as we got higher.]


[The true summit comes into view as we grunt up underneath the false one.]

 
[A pano looking left (south) as we go around the false summit - the true summit in the sun light ahead. ++]


[It's easy to get into technical terrain on Smith, the trick is bail climber's left at these sections. Here we are traversing under the false summit.]


[Steven waits for us under the false summit on the traverse.]


[Looking back at Eric on the traverse]


[Right now our summit is in the sun - this won't last!]

 
[Looking back along the ascent ridge over the false summit. Splendid Mountain on the left. ++]

 
[A nice morning to be climbing. ++]


[This section was easy and fun]


[Grunting up scree]


[The clouds start thickening as we climb adding dramatic views off the ridge.]


[A first ascent register is pretty rare nowadays and 1966 is a while ago!]


[Rick Collier register. I'm not sure why he placed a separate one?]

 
[The clearest pano I got from the summit, looking towards Harrison (L) and Folk (R) which are buried in clouds. ++]


[Carefully avoiding the loose rock on descent.]


[Splendid Mountain actually looks kind of splendid with the swirling cloud.]


[Back around the false summit.]


[The final rubble slopes to the bivy.]

 

From our bivy we decided to take a risk and descend into the valley between the two false summits of Smith's east ridge. There was a perfect exit ramp from just below our bivy which would potentially save us kilometers of hiking back to the easternmost ridge. The risk was that we had no idea how bad the bushwhacking would get to exit this hanging valley. The ramp was very quick and soon we were hiking out of the valley along a delightful stream dipping into the forested slopes above the clear cuts. The only intense bushwhacking was a short stretch to get past a series of cliff bands just above the clear cuts. This was bad enough that I wouldn't want to ascend here, but it worked OK for descent. From there we followed our approach road back across Harrison Creek and to the truck.

 


[Looking down the ramp we used to exit the east ridge of Smith from just below our bivy.]


[Looking back at the east ridge, we descended the deepest notch you can see and bivied just above it by the prominent grey outcrop.]


[Into the bush... It was pretty good for a while along the stream until we ran into cliff bands further down.]


[Following the stream.]


[Eventually we bushwhacked through a short and very steep section of alders to get around the cliff band and came out in this clear cut.]


[I'm not sure why they leave some trees like this? My guess is that they're only allowed to harvest certain types.]


[The false summit from the clear cut. I wouldn't recommend ascending this way, but it works for a fast descent.]


[The end of another successful late summer peak bagging trip.]


[The drive along the Bull River FSR has many wonderful views like this. I think this is "just" an outlier, but it's a pretty darn impressive one!]

 

I can't say I highly recommend Smith Peak, but if you're in the area anyway it may be worth your time. The north ridge of Mount Splendid (named by Pat Morrow presumably tonque-in-cheek due to it's non-splendidness!) is another option in the area. Both could be done as day trips from logging roads nearby but both offer little other than views of clear cuts, scree bashing and bush.

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