Once we descended from Christian Peak and looped back to our traverse tracks from the day before, we decided to give Arctomys Peak a try. I think we all underestimated the amount of effort required to get all the way over to the eastern edge of the Lyell Icefield from the south ridge of Christian Peak, never mind the effort to then descend 400 vertical meters, cross another small icefield and then re-ascend to the summit of Arctomys.
Edward Peak was easy after the 'schrund on Ernest, but what would Rudolph be like? Well - it was smack in the middle of the previous two. We had no technical issues up it's south ridge, it was a moderate scramble at most. The only difference between it and the other Lyell peaks, is that Rudolph is a rock scramble rather than a snow climb.
Next to Ernest Peak, Edward (Lyell II) was pretty darn tame. Other than the fact that the height gains and distances were starting to add up and the day was getting long, there were absolutely no difficulties getting to the summit of the purported, but debatable of the highest of the Lyells.
I think it was Ben who initially started musing that perhaps we should "go for Lyell 1, 2 and 3 (Rudolph, Edward and Ernest) today yet". Wait, what?! When I first overheard his murmured suggestion I thought I must be dreaming. I'd never heard of anyone doing the entire Lyell Hut approach on foot and then 3 of the 5 Lyells on the same day.
The Lyell Icefield and the Lyell peaks in particular, have had my attention for many years. I’ve been doing trips around them and had glimpses and full on views of their lofty and distinct summits many times. Some of the best views were on my remote ascent of Mount Amery, Monchy and Hooge back in 2012 with Eric Coulthard.
After a fairly straightforward route to the summit of Threepoint Mountain it was time to explore. Nugara is pretty sure in his guidebooks that there is "no direct route" from Threepoint over to Mount Rose, it's shorter neighbor to the south. He's right, of course. There is no direct scramble route.
Every time I drove home from the mountains along the Trans Canada highway, I wondered how easy this little bump would be to ascend. It's certainly prominent enough to warrant a name, but it doesn't have an official one as far as I know. Sonny and Raf are two friends who have done it. Raf assured me that it would be a nice short day - something I could do with my family.
On Saturday, May 23 2015 Raf and I decided we were in the mood for an easy scramble. We settled on Waputik Peak on the border of Banff and Yoho National Parks after Raf assured me that the slopes looked dry already a week ago. I couldn't believe there was that little snow already near the divide - but he was right.
Chickadee Peak has been on my radar ever since seeing Raf's trip report on it. Back when Wietse and I did Boom Mountain, I remember looking at all the skiable terrain further up the Chickadee Valley and wondering if there were any other peaks we could ski in the area. Well, it turns out that there is!
On Sunday, April 19th we awoke in -15 degrees feeling pretty darn good with ourselves. The previous day we'd skied into our camp beneath Mount Columbia and even managed to ascend the peak before collapsing into our sleeping bags after a long and hard 17 hour day.