After spending one of the most enjoyable and gorgeous fall days of my hiking / scrambling life the day before on Schaffer, McArthur Lake and All Souls Prospect, I woke up on Friday morning, the first day of October ready for another fantastic outing.
I was hiking over frost-nipped ground by around 07:30 after breakfast and an excellent cup of Starbucks instant coffee. The air was crisp and cool but the sky was clear and I felt great after a pretty good sleep in the hut. Huts can be extremely noisy and cramped but stuffing my ears with TP combined with being pretty tired after a long day and a wake up time of 04:00 helped me sleep despite the snoring of Bob the artist beside me! :-)
[Looking back at Mary Lake and Cathedral mountain as I gain height into the Opabin Plateau. The two summits of Wiwaxy rise on the right.]
My route for the day was to wander into the upper Opabin Plateau area, taking advantage of early morning light and the pools / lakes for photography. After wandering around and visiting Hungabee and Opabin Lakes I would traverse the Yukness Highline trail to Lake Oesa. After exploring that area for a while I would take the Wiwaxy highline trail to the Wiwaxy / Huber col and from there I would attempt Wiwaxy Peaks (east peak) as a scramble. After that it would be a quick hike back to Lake O'Hara and then to the EP hut.
[The excellent trail on the Opabin Plateau with Opabin Pass in the far distance.]
As I wandered around the upper Opabin Plateau area I was struck by two things;
How lucky I was to have the health, time and money to explore areas like this!
How rare it must be to have such accessible, well maintained (trails) and wild scenery and to have this wild scenery all to MYSELF. I was the only person wandering around up there until at least 10:00!
As I walked further and further onto the plateau I started thinking about visiting Opabin Pass. I knew that there was supposed to be a glacier all the way to the pass, but didn't know if it had possibly melted back far enough to bypass it in any way. I decided to go beyond Opabin Lake and check it out for myself.
[Looking over Cascade Ponds towards Wiwaxy (L) and Huber (R).]
[Mount Biddle towers impressively over the route to Opabin Pass.]
[Looking over Moor Lakes towards Wiwaxy East (L) and Huber (R).]
[The trails on the Opabin Plateau are wonderful - the views are wonderful too.]
[Hungabee Lake reflects gorgeous Cathedral Mountain. Odaray and Stephen on the left and Wiwaxy on the right.]
[A panorama of the Moor Lakes (distance) and Hungabee Lake (closest) as I work my way up the headwall to Hungabee Lake. ++]
[Opabin Lake with Yukness, Ringrose, Hungabee and Biddle (L to R).]
There are cairns and an obvious trail working it's way all the way up to the Opabin Glacier. This is the climber's approach route for Hungabee and that's why there is this unofficial trail. Along the way I discovered what I think is a bivy spot containing some sort of waste container. There was nothing in it - so I really don't know what that container was for. As I approached the glacier I could see that I was probably not going to make the pass. The glacier had some surprisingly big crevasses in it and with some fresh snow on the upper part and no partner or crampons in my pack I wasn't going to fool around on it alone. I thought I'd press on just for fun anyway. I turned back after trying to ascend a bit of Hungabee's lower slopes on climber's left of the glacier and have some rocks zing past me from above! This gives me a good idea of the stability of Hungabee for when I climb it - there is none! ;-) I reluctantly turned around and hiked back towards Opabin Lake.
[Mount Biddle reflects in Opabin Lake. Opabin Pass at far left.]
[Hungabee (L) and Biddle (R) reflect in the green waters of Opabin Lake.]
[Frozen puddle and Opabin Pass.]
[The Opabin Glacier is quite broken and melted back.]
[The Opabin Glacier is tame, but is quite broken and requires crampons to get up and down safely.]
[Mount Biddle and the Opabin Glacier.]
[Looking back from beside the glacier, Mount Schaffer, Opabin Lake, Yukness, Odaray, Stephen, Cathedral and Wiwaxy (L to R) in the bg. ++]
[Looking over Opabin and Moor Lakes to Cathedral and Wiwaxy Peaks (R).]
Once past the lake I scouted around for the Yukness Ledge route to Lake Oesa and started along it. This is a wonderful hike on some exposed terrain granting sublime views of the O'Hara region. Once again, the route was very obvious with limited exposure.
[Back under the Opabin Glacier, heading back to find the Yukness Ledge route, somewhere to the right. ++]
[Opabin Lake reflects Mount Stephen with Odaray on the left.]
[The stunning green color of Opabin Lake.]
[Looking down at the plateau from just past Opabin Lake on my way to find the Yukness Ledge route above Hungabee Lake.]
[Hungabee Lake reflects Mount Odaray. I had to descend right to the lake to find the Yukness Ledge route going up through the gray, loose rocks on the right side of this photo.]
[Gorgeous morning lighting on Little (L) and main Odaray Peaks.]
[Finally on the Yukness Ledge route - Moor Lakes just visible at lower left.]
[Looking back along the fabulous Yukness Ledge trail with Hungabee and Moor Lakes below and Biddle in the bg.]
[A magical high line hike continues around the NW end of Yukness Mountain.]
[A great panorama starts to open up in front of me as I round the NW nose of Yukness. Cascade Lakes, Mary and O'Hara Lake with Schaffer, Odaray, Stephen, Cathedral and my destination peak for the afternoon - Wiwaxy from L to R. ++]
[As I round the NW nose of Yukness the view opens up completely to reveal the entire Lake O'Hara. Mount Huber towers above on the right. Tiny Yukness Lake is visible at lower right. ++]
[Does it get better than this? Not often!]
[As the Yukness Ledges trail rounds the NW end of Yukness Mountain, views of Huber (L) and Victoria (R) open up above and the trail negotiates through some interesting cliffy ledges.]
[Ledges aren't a problem for indigenous wildlife.]
[Mary, O'Hara and Yukness Lakes. (L to R) Wiwaxy at far right with the trail to the Wiwaxy / Huber col somewhere up that slope on the right.]
[The ledges high line traverse is one of my favorite hikes I've done in the Rockies.]
After losing some hard won elevation, I found myself at Lake Oesa. The lake was very quiet and I spent almost an hour at it, snacking and pondering life. Then it was time to get back to 'work'!
[Descending from the Ledge Route to Lake Oesa with Lefroy (L), Glacier (C) and Ringrose (R) looming above.]
[Not many folks are sharing this most perfect day with me - which made it even better! Lefroy Lake is visible in front of Lake Oesa here.]
[Water flows from Lake Oesa to Lefroy Lake with Mount Ringrose looming many thousands of feet above.]
[Lake Oesa with Victoria, Lefroy, Glacier and Ringrose (L to R) rising above. The route to the Abbott Hut is trampled into the scree slopes on the left side of this frame. ++]
The trudge up to the Wiwaxy - Huber col was enjoyable. Most people seemed to be doing it the opposite way (I was doing all my work at the end of the day) but the trail was obvious and the views kept getting better and better. If you're not used to loose and somewhat exposed hiking you may not love this section of the high line traverse.
[Starting the grunt to the Wiwaxy / Huber col. Lefroy Lake, Yukness Lake and Lake O'Hara at bottom.]
[Looking back down at Yukness, Lefroy Lakes and Lake Oesa with Glacier, Ringrose, Hungabee, Yukness and Biddle all visible now too (L to R).]
[Wiwaxy and the col are now clearly visible with and obvious route towards them. Wiwaxy doesn't look too easy from this angle!]
[View from the col, looking down the approach valley with Cathedral at left and the Sherbrooke Lake area in the far distance.]
[My destination from the Wiwaxy / Huber col is the East Peak of Wiwaxy.]
At the col I met Anthony, who was a parks employee from Yellowstone National Park in the USA. He was waiting at the col for better light on Ringrose and Hungabee. I told him my intentions of going up Wiwaxy East and he said he'd wait for me to get back before heading down.
I turned my attention towards the mountain looming over the col to the west. After successfully summiting Wiwaxy East Peak, I descended back to the col before joining Anthony for the hike back down to Lake O'Hara. In gorgeous late afternoon sun light we descended the very steep trail to the lake.
[The trail down from the col to Lake O'Hara is obvious.]
[Incredible late day lighting on Lefroy with Seven Vail Falls tumbling into Lake O'Hara at bottom.]
[An incredible sunset panorama from the shoreline of Lake O'Hara. From L to R, Wiwaxy, Huber, Victoria, Lefroy, Glacier, Yukness, Hungabee, Biddle. ++]
The Lake O'Hara Alpine Circuit route links up a number of popular trails in the Lake O'Hara region and is, in my mind, one of the most mind blowing, reality altering hikes you can do in any mountain environment, anywhere - especially if you do it in late September and have the place almost entirely to yourself like I did!
The morning after the circuit hike, I spent some time photographing the views around Lake O'Hara itself, including the lovely Seven Veils Falls on the far east end of the main lake.
[Sunrise on Odaray (L) and Cathedral (R) looking west from the east end of the lake.]
[Mount Stephen (L) and Cathedral (R) reflect in a calm Lake O'Hara.]
[Seven Veil Falls]
[Seven Veil Falls]
[Seven Veil Falls]
[Seven Veil Falls]