Diadem Peak


Trip Details
Mountain Range: 
Mountain Subrange: 
Attained Summit?: 
Trip Date: 
Saturday, September 6, 2014
Summit Elevation (m): 
Summit Elevation (ft): 
Elevation Gain (m): 
Quick 'n Easy Rating: 
Class 5 : you fall, you are dead
Difficulty Notes: 

Steep snow or ice couloirs to 45 degrees. Glacier travel and steep, wet, scree covered rock in between the couloirs. A final rock step to the true summit may catch you by surprise - many avoid it.

Trip Report

Once we descended the North Ridge of Mount Woolley to the col, we found ourselves staring up at the easy, snow and scree covered South Ridge of Diadem Peak. There wasn't much in the way of difficulties or route finding to the summit of Diadem. It was one tired foot in front of the other! As I crested the snowy summit bump, I immediately noticed what looked to be a slightly higher, rocky summit tower to the Northeast of us. I remembered a discussion on the old RMBooks forum about this summit and wondered if we should wander over to it, to give it a look.


[Starting up our second 11,000er of the day.]

[A wonderful shot of Mount Woolley and it's North Ridge. ++]

[Ascending snow just below the summit.]

[A panorama from what the majority of climbers consider the summit of Diadem Peak. The slightly higher - and much more difficult - rocky summit at right. ++]

[A great shot of the Northeast Ridge of Alberta. The North Face is in deep shadow.]


Steven was way ahead of me, already tramping his way towards it! Ben and I somewhat reluctantly, followed. Why were Ben and I dragging our feet? The rock didn't look easy. Covered in snow and ice and surrounded by steep walls, we were hoping to avoid having to ascend it. When we got a bit closer we knew we were out of luck on that one...


Steven was gung ho to ascend the scary looking crux to the summit cairn first, so I handed him my GPS and asked him to take a few measurements at the top. If the measurements were higher than what I'd measured on the snow bump that most people call the "summit", I'd have no choice but to follow Steven's footprints up. I had measured two readings of 3370 and 3372 on the snowy bump. Mr. Song made the scramble look fairly easy, but very exposed and when he took a few readings and shouted down the number "3375", Ben and I realized we were going up too!


[Crap. Looks like we have to at least check that rocky summit with a cairn out.]

[Double crap. Do we really have to follow him up there?! A wee bit of exposure. ++]

[Yep. It sounds like it's higher.]


I gingerly traversed the first part of the climb to the summit on a snowy ledge before coming to a short knife-edge arete. This arete looks extremely exposed from the east side (and it is), but when I got right up to it I was relieved to note that I probably wouldn't die if I fell off the west side... ;) A few short, exposed moves on snowy rock and I joined Steven on the rocky summit of Diadem. I traversed to the summit cairn and started rooting around for a register. Eventually I realized that there was too much snow and ice to find the register and gave up. When I stood up and looked over at the snow bump on Diadem I could tell right away that this rocky summit was higher. I could clearly see over the snowy summit, something you can't do with a higher or equally high apex. I also measured the altitude with my watch and a few more readings with the barometric altimeter on the GPS and every single reading was over 3374. (On my way back over the snow summit, multiple readings never went over 3373.) I'm sure some people are going to be grumpy about this, but if you skipped the rocky summit of Diadem you probably did not stand on her true apex, unless you were there in a very high snow year! ;)


The views from the summit did not disappoint and were much the same as Woolley's views. We could see slightly more of Mount Alberta's North Face and obviously of the mountains directly north of the area. Mushroom Peak looked quite high to me, I wondered how the heck I was going to have the energy to even attempt it, but it looked fairly easy from Diadem. The toughest part would be traversing it's lower glacier on our way to her south scree slopes and East Ridge.


[Now that is a summit panorama!! ++]

[Mount Warren and Brazeau on the left side are 11,000ers that I did the next summer with Ben.]

[Poboktan Mountain is 10,893 feet high.]

[I did Sunwapta in April of 2006 with Kelly Smith and Sonny Bou in lots of snow - we didn't even have views of Woolley and Diadem at the time. I don't think I expected to be standing on Diadem Peak 8 years later.]

[Mushroom Peak looks tiny - but we have to descend many hundreds of vertical meters before we can even start up it!]

[Looking past Mount Kitchener towards Athabasca.]

[L to R, Andromeda, Kitchener, Snow Dome, Cro]

[The impressive summits of the Stutfields with Bryce rising behind them and Cromwell and Engelhard in front at left. North Twin and Twin's Tower just left of the summit of Woolley. ++]

[Clearly I am higher than the snowy summit of Diadem (R) here - not much higher, but higher, nonetheless.]

[Mount Alberta's North Ridge and part of the North Face impress with their vertical relief from the lower north glacier.]

[Serenity and Hooker in the distance at left. Catacombs on the left over Mount Palmer, Geikke in the far distance, Robson, Fryatt and Edith Cavell all visible far away over Thorington Tower. Mount GEC is a unique summit right of Thorington Tower. Nelson and Smythe at right. ++]

[Steven takes in the wonderful view over Mushroom Peak and our bivy tarn, far below. ++]


After enjoying the amazing summit views on Diadem it was time to descend the long and potentially hazardous terrain through the two couloirs to the lower glacier. The first part of the descent, after the crux summit rock, was easy and fast. Soon we were back at the second (steeper) couloir. It had certainly melted out during this long, sunny, warm day and we were a bit apprehensive about the descent. There was no guarantee it would even have snow to our traverse point, or if it was now bare ice. Oh well. No time like the present... As the occasional rock zipped past us, we quickly started down the couloir on stable but slushy snow. Our crampons bit into the ice beneath the snow fairly well and we made good time to the rock traverse point. 


[Don't slip on the crux! ++]

[Steven Au Chavel on the crux, Ben is descending the upper crux, you don't want to slip anywhere here.]

[Vern on the snow summit of Diadem Peak.]

[Walking down the easy summit slopes of Diadem to the col.]

[Descending to the Woolley col.]


If was steeper than I remembered from that morning, but with two axes and firm steps we just managed to avoid any ice in the gully and transitioned to the rock, happy to be away from the rock / ice that was occasionally plummeting down on top of us. The rock traverse went much better than I was expecting. We managed to swing far to skier's left before going back right to avoid most of the down sloping, crumbly slabs. Soon we found ourselves approaching the lower angled first couloir - which we assumed would be fairly easy. We even kept one hiking pole and used it with our alpine axes. This was a mistake. The gully had been a breeze in the morning, but the snow was pretty much completely melted out on this lower section. Rocks were zinging past much more regularly than the upper couloir - and there was evidence of a LOT of rock fall coming down over the day. Our plan was to traverse this couloir towards the glacier between Diadem and Mushroom Peak and follow this glacier to the south face and west ridge of Mushroom. As Ben traversed the couloir he started looking really awkward almost right away.


Pure, hard ICE. No snow. Crap!! We very gingerly made our way down the gully - way too slowly for my liking - remember the rock fall issues? We eventually managed to get our second ice ax out and this made things much safer and faster. Steven led the way out of the gully and we breathed a huge sigh of relief. There's nothing like random rock fall to keep you on your toes! I don't really enjoy the randomness of these kinds of objective hazards. I don't mind exposure or things that I can control but hearing the sounds of rocks coming down a steep mountain slope above you and cringing as they careen either past you or over you is NOT my idea of a good time...


[Our tracks down Woolley. ++]

[Couldn't ask for better weather.]

[A steep, slushy down climb in the second couloir.]

[Down climbing, near the rock traverse. We ran out of snow just as we transitioned to rock - very good timing!]

[Camera lens is wet from the 2nd couloir but we are now downclimbing the ledges to the first couloir.]

[Looking up the down sloping slabs that we went up in the morning and largely avoided on descent.]

[Traversing the slabs back to the first couloir - where's all the snow?! ++]

[Now we're pretty much out of snow completely. That little bit that exists isn't helping. At least we have both tools out now. We're trying to transition to the left side of the photo and out of danger of falling rocks and ice.]

[Trying to escape the rockfall in the first couloir as quickly as possible!]

[The sun disappears over Woolley's summit as we prepare for our third and last summit of the day - Mushroom Peak.]

[Looking at Mushroom Peak (L) which isn't looking quite as easy as we'd hoped. ++]


Now, with daylight already starting to fade, we had to somehow cross the lower Diadem / Mushroom glacier and then slog up at least 500 vertical meters to the summit of 10,500 high Mushroom Peak.

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